After a relaxing did-nothing-day we move our asses to the pacific and go surfin’… well go surfin’ is a big statement, we take our first two hours lesson! Fitted with 8ft boards we go to the beach where Santiago tells us how to stand up… remember the cutie in point break teaching Keanu!? Well he was more lucky than me (with the teacher look…). Well after a couple of “stay low” on the sand we go in the water. Beside the paddling part it feels good when you kind of catch the wave and stand up and go straight toward the beach… and let yourself fall in the water because carving is not yet in our repertory (ask Sarah’s nose…).
Two hours later we are starving and tired so –> LUNCH&CHILL!!!
Cheers, Marco